Wednesday 11 October 2000 (Day 285 - Hiroshima, Japan to Fukuoka, Japan by bus)
We had a really slim breakfast this morning. By mid-morning, my tummy was growling and I had to eat three times before dinner. Guess we are all about to lose some weight.
We were supposed to clean and dry all our camping gear [Photo352] between 7AM and 11AM in preparation for shipping it ahead to New Zealand. We had to catch a ferry and be bussed in two different directions, half to Osaka and the other half to Fukuoka. We didn't make the scheduled times so were late getting to our destinations. What's new?
We sat around and waited, seemingly forever, to load the truck. [Photo353] TKA gear was split between the trucks, as well as our baggage, which had to be in the right truck to go to the correct destination. Mass confusion for hours. Staff were waiting for directions and riders just sat waiting for instructions. I felt bad that we couldn't help but there was really nothing to do until Tim finally showed up and then things still moved at a snail's pace. Total inefficiency.
We had so much time to kill and couldn't leave camp until we had our own bags loaded so Margherita, Young Dave, Alan, and I played Euchre. Then once on the buses, Margherita, Pat, Alan, and I played scrabble. Then five of us played balderdash until we finally got to Fukuoka. It was a long day of sitting around and waiting.
Our dinner was at a Chinese restaurant and the meal was very good. We didn't get to eat until almost 8:30PM so some people left and went to bed hungry, I guess. I never willingly pass up a meal.
The terrain was more tree-covered mountains. All of Japan looks similar, mountains everywhere with cities crammed in every little flat valley there is. The road was often way up high but every time we crossed a valley, they had big concrete walls on the sides so we couldn't see. It was frustrating not to be able to look down the gorgeous V-shaped valleys that were short and steep and lush.
Walked 2.0 km today / 462.5 km total (1.2 mi / 287.4 mi)
Thursday 12 October 2000 (Day 286 - Flight from Fukuoka, Japan to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia)
Forgot to mention that we had several really tame deer in our campground yesterday. Young Dave made the mistake of feeding them and then we couldn't get rid of them. They came right up to you and grabbed stuff. It was funny but irritating at the same time. You didn't dare turn your back if you laid something down.
When we arrived at the campground, there was one tent there. It was a fellow traveling by himself and he was from Seattle. Came to find out that his mother worked with rider Beth for 20 years. Beth had never met him but knew about him from his mother. Imagine traveling all over the world and meeting someone in Japan for the first time whom you've heard about for years. Unreal how small this world really is.
This morning we got up early to load gear on the trucks, then breakfast, then bussed to the airport. Lots of time spent standing in lines. When they divided the TKA gear yesterday, such as showers, massage tables, mechanic's tools, etc. for the two flights, they arrived in Osaka and found out the plane did not have enough room for the extra gear other than regular luggage. So two staff people had to drive the truck from Osaka to Fukuoka so that gear could be shipped on our plane and then drive the truck back to Osaka. I don't understand that mix-up. Again, I felt sorry for the staff.
We were on a commercial flight and had assigned seats, most of our 111 people being in a block near the rear. Once everyone got on, several people changed seats to sit near friends and Margherita, Dave, Alan and I were all able to get together. So we passed the time on this 6 hr flight by playing cards and scrabble.
Once we arrived at the Kuala Lumpur airport, several people had more than a 2 hr wait for their baggage. It didn't make sense how some baggage came and then the carousel shut off. So we stood around and waited and waited. Finally after 2 hours and 20 minutes, we found out that the missing bags were on a pallet ready to be shipped to New Zealand.
We had marked our bags for New Zealand with a special colored string but were told we'd have access to them tonight at Kuala Lumpur. A few people had planned on getting into those bags one last time and had packed all their bike gear in with their camping gear. I know of one for sure whose bag is on that pallet with all her bike gear. Will be interesting how they solve that problem.
While a few of us were standing around grumbling to ourselves about all the time we wasted standing in line waiting tonight, it was brought up that we have spent 27¼ hours on a bus this week and more than 60 hours either on the buses or airplanes, or standing in line to board either of them just this week.
That doesn't leave a lot of time to see Japan. We are all getting tired of just sitting or standing. It is really hard to get any time to walk during the day. And when we don't get any exercise, we tend to get crabby more easily, or at least I do.
We are staying at a 5-star hotel tonight right here at the airport. But this is overkill. It is nice, but overly nice. Since we just arrived here, very few people had any money at all to tip the baggage boys who took our bags to our rooms. However, the service this hotel offers right here off the lobby is really convenient: internet, photocopying, postal services, etc. Things we never have time to go look for.
And to top off the day, no one at 9PM could tell us for sure about what happens tomorrow. I just hope the bikes end up with us in Hong Kong.
Friday 13 October 2000 (Day 287 - Flight from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia to Hong Kong, China)
We had two wake up calls this morning for our 6AM
breakfast. The phone was really loud and we didn't even request
them. My roommate and I were just loading the baggage cart to
leave our room when the fire alarm went off. Immediately, an announcement
came over the loud speaker telling us that they were investigating
the alarm and not to panic. Easy for them to say. We hustled down
the hall and, of course, you are not supposed to use the elevators.
So then we grabbed everything
and ran down the stairs. I didn't think I had it in me to carry
all my bags at once, but I did. Just as we got to the main floor,
they announced that it was a false alarm. Fine.
So we found new carts and proceeded to the airport to stand in line for two more hours at check-in. We were informed that our bags that we didn't receive last night would meet us in Hong Kong tonight. Well, guess what. They didn't. So I don't know where all my cool weather clothes for New Zealand are at this time.
After we made it through customs, we stood around and waited from one to four hours while we were shuttled to the hotel, 40 at a time. Such a waste of time. We arrived at the hotel and, what else, but another hour long line to check in.
I was tired and semi-crabby again tonight from just sitting and standing in lines all day so at dinner, an incident just about tipped me over the edge. We are in Hong Kong, so of course, we are served Chinese food. Great. I really like the food and many choices but we only received hot tea to drink. I was my usual thirsty self and requested water. First they brought me a pitcher of hot water. OK. Simple misunderstanding.
So I asked for cold water. The waiter brought me a glass of ice as well as for all the other nine people at the table. He then proceeded to pour bottled water in everyone's glass. I promptly drank mine and he refilled it. Then he sat a full bottle at my place. I'm thinking to myself that this is really neat, he must realize that I'm pretty thirsty. So we're siting there, chatting away and it is almost a half hour past the scheduled serving time and no food yet.
Then the waiter brings me a bill for a little over $8.00 US. I'm supposed to pay for everyone's water and I'm the only one who requested it. First of all, it wasn't listed on the drink menu as an item charged for and secondly, I did not request water for everyone. So I am trying to explain this to these Chinese waiters, of which there were four at one time standing all around me pointing to the bill. I wanted to talk to our tour organizer before I paid but they certainly did not understand that.
I finally agreed to pay for one bottle, an expensive $2. So they agreed and proceeded to collect everyone else's water from the table, whether they drank any of it or not. So weird. I was embarrassed and then I got teased about being the table's entertainment for the evening. If the truth were to be known, I was so mad, I was on the verge of tears, not from my friends but from the absurdity of it all and the insistence of those waiters. I was truly embarrassed but was not going to pay for more water than I ordered. So we all learned a lesson. Ask how much the water is before you order it.
Jim felt so bad for me that he bought me an ice cream sundae and when we got back to the hotel, Willma informed me we aren't supposed to eat ice cream while in China. Oh, well. What can I say? Just another adventure.
We are crammed in, three to a room that should only be for two, so that added insult to injury. Hardly room to turn around and nowhere to hang out laundry to dry. We'll survive but it is a pain.
Saturday 14 October 2000 (Day 288 - Layover day in Hong Kong, China)
Marg, Denise, and I went to town by hotel courtesy bus right after breakfast, then the ferry over to Hong Kong island [Photo354] and walked the streets for half the day. Came back to Kowloon by the subway. This subway was one of the easiest to use that we've been on. We saw markets and more 'antique' shops than you can imagine.
Both cities were nothing but skyscrapers. [Photo355] There are no buildings less than 10 stories and most are 25 plus. There is so little flatish land, they have no choice but to go up. What struck me as odd are the colors of the buildings. One was green with orange tinted windows. It really stood out. I guess they have to have different colors because all the buildings are pretty similar.
There are some really old ones that should be torn down, lots of identical new ones side by side, and then there are some new ones beside old ones so it is quite a hodgepodge. I could never live in a place like this. Too many people, no individuality, all apartments are just like everyone else's. I didn't see the cities at night but was told it beats NYC in lights and beauty.
It rained off and on all day so it wasn't as pleasant walking as it could have been.
About 40 riders went off route today to do a China side, one of their destinations being the Great Wall. Margherita, Alan, and Charmaine all went so I'll have to find new scrabble partners for our combined 8 hr ferry and bus ride tomorrow. I'm taking care of their bags while they are gone.
We separated out our camping gear and that finally was loaded to go to New Zealand tonight about dinner time. In fact, several of us left dinner to help load the trucks and then came back for dessert. Nothing seems to happen at the scheduled times. We all had our bags ready to load at the appointed time but it was almost 40 minutes later that the first bag went on the truck.
Several riders didn't come back for dinner and knew nothing about the loading of the New Zealand bags so I bet there will be several bags that will have to be hauled around that aren't needed. Could be some upset people. We kept asking when and where but no announcement was made until mid-afternoon and on layover days, some riders leave in the early morning and don't return until late that night. It is unfortunate for them, but no one could get access to their bags. Bummer.
The day started out with a requested 4:45AM wake up call. We had to load bags at 6AM but breakfast at 5:30AM and I had three people's bags to get downstairs. I took them on the way to breakfast to avoid the elevator crunch. We loaded, or I should say the Chinese loaded, our bags on four small panel trucks. No order or neatness. Just threw them in until they had a big pile, shut the door, and started on the next one.
We couldn't figure if the trucks couldn't hold the weight of neatly stacked bags or if that's just the way they do it. We could have put twice as many in each truck, given the opportunity to stack them ourselves. We had to load the busses at 6:30AM to get to the ferry and check in with our bags again. Remember about 40 people went off route and left their bags with various others. So now several of us are lugging bags for two or three people. Makes it really interesting to be sure.
We work in teams of three and four at times like today when we had to walk around a corner 200 plus feet to an elevator, then up two floors and down another 400 foot hall. When you have to make two or three trips, you don't want to leave bags unattended so we station ourselves on both ends and work the middle. It is still hard when 200 people are milling about and you aren't really sure where to go.
The ferry only left 10 minutes late which surprised me because there were still many people standing in line to check in just before take off. I assume we all got on board. As we were boarding the ferry, they were still loading our bikes in groups of 5-8 by crane. [Photo356] They had them tied together and then set them down as a group, not always gently. This was the first time we had seen our bikes since before Japan and we are hoping there's not going to be a lot of damage.
We went up a river and the mountains of Hong Kong turned into the flattest land I've seen in a long time, then back to mountains right to the edge of the river. We saw very little human habitation along that stretch. I'm not sure what I missed during the 2 hour nap I took.
We docked, claimed our bags, went through customs and reloaded trucks again, this time riders stacking the bags. We had to load the bikes, too. It went rather smoothly but still took an extra hour over the time allotted. We were definitely an odd happening. Locals peered through the fence watching us and some of the customs people seemed amazed at the size and weight of our bags.
Along the river, there was a definite change in economic status from what we saw in Hong Kong. It was more run down and super low-income housing.
We had a very bumpy bus ride in small seats, with a driver who loved to honk at every vehicle he passed. Since Dave, Stephanie and I played scrabble we sat in the back and probably felt the bumps more than the others, especially when we went flying from the pavement to gravel road and the driver didn't slow down. He also took the curves fast. I felt like I was on the end of a rope being whipped around corners. Gone are the cushy bus rides.
We did see some beautiful community mini-gardens along the way and small rice paddies. Out in the country, the houses were made of pretty brown bricks. So much nicer than the painted concrete.
We were furnished with bottled water [Photo357] at the ferry dock, but no bathrooms and we rode on the bumpy bus for hours with no pit stop. Just a little uncomfortable. Arrived at the hotel earlier than scheduled, but then stood in line to get a room and then unloaded the bikes and bags again.
Dinner was the typical, many side dish, Chinese food. This was not the best. Less palatable than what we've had lately.
After dinner many of us were putting our bikes together for tomorrow. I put on two new tires and changed an innertube. Hopefully, all will be well in the morning. I hate tires that go flat overnight.
Monday 16 October 2000 (Day 290 - Wuzhou, China to Xindu, China BY BIKE)
I slept well in spite of the rock hard bed but woke up with a nervous tummy. First time back on a bike in way over two weeks. As it was, I forgot my rear view mirror today and felt naked without it. I had changed both tires and one innertube last night and was hoping one wouldn't be flat this morning. I lucked out.
I had to load my bags and two other bags plus take care of a wheel and no one knew much first thing this morning. I took care of everything, I thought, and was being pressured to hurry and ride off with Ed, Willma, and Dr. Sharon. About 10 km down the road, I realized I hadn't loaded the off route bikes so had to call back and let someone know.
As we rode through town, a bicyclist with freshly plucked ducks rode by. Several with big baskets of this and that. It is amazing what they can carry on a bike. Many bikes look like huge tricycles with a cart over the rear wheels. We got out of town quickly, being a small town. But bicycle traffic was heavy.
About 20-30 km out, there was major road construction, as in moldable mud that squished between the tires and fenders. [Photo358] Often difficult to stay upright but I managed. One poor fellow today broke off his pedal and had to pedal with only one for almost 40 km. He lost it in one of the quagmires and went down in the muck. His whole left side was plastered.
Through the construction, the mud lanes were only wide enough for one vehicle so it was pretty hairy when a truck came up behind you. Every vehicle that passes you, doesn't matter which direction it is going, HONKS really loudly. It is a friendly honk but somewhat irritating just the same. Just before lunch, I caught up with Charlie and rode with him the rest of the way. [Photo359] [Photo360]
The people were super friendly today. Kids [Photo366] would say hello many times, even if you answered them. And then when you said hello, they'd laugh. I don't know if we had an accent, or looked funny, or what. The only time they'd get quiet is if you'd pull out your camera. None of the people along the road wanted their picture taken. The people and kids along the road today reminded me an awful lot of those in Africa, except these people seemed to be more friendly.
Once we got into checkpoint, a crowd of locals gathered. There was a group of 25 males all gathered around staring at us. [Photo361] When we came out from dinner, there was a crowd outside staring in the windows. Maybe they've never seen white folks before.
In this small town, there are five small hotels, ours looking like it hasn't been used in years. We have a squat pit in the floor and a shower but no bathroom sink. The towels, the size of a kitchen towel, pillow and bed spreads all smell. Glad I have a silk liner to crawl into. Quite a change from that 5-star hotel a few days ago.
It is amazing the bustle in town. It has only one street with just a few fruit and vegetable stands, no other stores. But people come from out of the woodwork.
Our bodies were covered with red dust and many of our faces looked like we had a masks on. I got in the shower and soaped up with a dribble of cold water and then it stopped. No one in the building had water. So I used their half towel and dried off my soap, got dressed, and then the water came back on so back into the cold shower for an invigorating rinse.
We saw several water buffalo being led by a rope by its owner. They are sort of cute. Very docile animals.
Parts of today reminded me of Africa. Ladies were carrying heavy loads in buckets or baskets, one on each end of a big stick across their shoulders, school kids running alongside of us, people coming from out of nowhere, and red dirt all over the roads. Saw a few rock outcroppings as we dropped into a valley. Otherwise, we wound through the tree-covered mountains. Very neat geologically.
Walked 2.0 km today / 464.5 km total (1.2 mi / 288.63 mi)
Mileage: 61.1 / 7,973.6 (Today / Cumulative) [KM: 98.3 / 12,832.3]
Elevation gain: 3,300 ft
Tuesday 17 October 2000 (Day 291 - Xindu, China to Zhongshan, China)
Last night's accommodations left a lot to be desired. Our bedding smelled really bad so I used my silk liner. At midnight, I woke up cold and got up and put on a long sleeved shirt and my wind pants. That worked until about 3AM. By then, I was somewhat desperate and pulled the covers up to my knees. It smelled so bad I couldn't even sleep so I kicked them off, and tossed and turned the rest of the night. I just could not get warm. The bed was nothing more than a piece of plywood with a thin blanket on it. I had my Crazy Creek chair with me so I lay on it and felt fine other than being cold.
Breakfast was poor, in my eyes. I just couldn't make myself eat anything more than the rice. I rode with Denise today. I was worried about keeping up with her but she rode my pace and we had an enjoyable day. We stopped and took lots of pictures of rice fields in the morning and limestone karst formations in the afternoon.
Also, got some pictures of the vehicles sharing the road. Not only do we have the trucks of every size and shape, but an occasional new model 4-wheel drive or fancy big car. Then there are hundreds of bicycles, really old single speeds hauling all kinds of wares from cartons of animals to lumber to baskets of fruit and vegetables to cardboard that looked like it was being hauled off to be recycled. I'm amazed at the size of their cargo as well as the weight. Makes me want to see what I can strap on my bike when I get home.
Then there were the large tricycles with a detached cart behind or a built on box. [Photo362] Next we have what I call the rototiller engine pulling a wagon or cart. [Photo363] The engine steers and sounds like a rototiller and looks very maneuverable. The taxis are basic tricycles with a box on the two rear wheels with seats in them.
Denise and I were stopped taking a picture today and this guy came up and wanted to give us a ride, I guess thinking we looked tired. We declined. We certainly got stared at a lot. I think most of these people have truly never seen anyone other than their own kind.
At checkpoint, we got to use our first trench toilet. What an experience. Nice big, modern looking building with a trench running the entire length of it. Kind of yukky.
Of interest along the roadside were the road crews, women who were pulling weeds just to the right of the shoulder. It looked like it had already been grazed by water buffalo and that they were pulling the 6 inch high weeds left by the animals. [Photo367] They were dressed in orange vests so looked very official. I thought to myself that they had their priorities mixed up. It just looked like a way to keep some people busy.
As we rode into town at the end of the day, we rode right through a huge market on the main street with thousands of people roaming the streets. We had to get off and walk part way because the crowd was so thick. They were selling everything from clothes, to fresh food, to trinkets. Quite a local happening.
Our accommodations tonight are much better except that our room smelled like cigarette smoke. We'll survive. [Photo364]
Mileage: 62.2 / 8,035.8 (Today / Cumulative) [KM: 100.1 / 12,932.4]
Elevation gain: 3,000 ft
Wednesday 18 October 2000 (Day 292 - Zhongshan, China to Yangshuo, China)
Our beds were interesting last night. They had a plastic covering over the mattress and every time someone would move or turn over, it would make a lot of noise. Denise had a fitful sleep and tossed and turned most of the night. It was really quite funny.
Breakfast was less than desirable. I tried to eat the rice soup and it just didn't settle well. I couldn't make myself eat anything other than the fried rice and then I still didn't feel good. So I left partially hungry with Denise and Young Dave who had a bad knee and we lollygagged along today. We stopped more today than any of us remembers.
So many new things to take pictures of. The scenery was spectacular. More limestone karsts and rural traditions. We saw every imaginable vehicle possible. I'm still fascinated by the 'rototiller truck.' I hope my pictures come out well because it is really hard to describe what these people do. There were times today that there were more miscellaneous homemade vehicles on the road than there were regular vehicles. Fascinating.
And everyone going somewhere with loads of stuff, from bricks, weeds, dirt, sand, produce, and people. Yes, they haul people in the back ends of trucks, carts, wagons, on bikes, you name it. I hand it to the Chinese, they seem to be innovative with their transportation needs.
We passed a local hospital today which was a brick building in really bad shape. No door on the front (most buildings here so far have a wide open entrance in the front). It had a red cross on the side of the building and you could see the stethoscope hanging on the wall inside. Sure hope I don't need any health care services here. Yuk!
Our hotel tonight is down a grade or two from last night. Back to the hole in the floor where sink and shower all runs into the hole. Beds smell OK and the room seems to be clean.
We are staying in a real tourist town tonight. Even saw other folks like us walking the street. Internet cafés and camera shops everywhere, neither of which we've seen since we left Hong Kong. In fact, this is the first time since then I could get a phone to work.
I was walking the street just checking out things and found a little store that sold Oreos and M&M peanuts. So I won't starve after all. I'm stocking up before we leave this town because the last three days have been really slim as far as food to eat (in my opinion).
Tonight for dinner, we had a western barbecue. That means you get to cook your own meat on skewers. Took forever but was pretty good once we figured out how to cook the meat without burning our wooden skewers.
It has been really nice to have three short days in a row with so much to see. We've been able to stop and not feel rushed. This is the way I think 90% of the riders thought this trip would be, even though we knew we were to average 80 miles a day. We just thought we'd have more relaxing 80 mile days rather than killer 80 mile days.
We're happy and loving China so far.
Mileage: 71.6 / 8,107.4 (Today / Cumulative) [KM: 115.2 / 13,047.6]
Elevation gain: 1,500 ft
Thursday 19 October 2000 (Day 293 - Layover day in Yangshou, China)
Woke up to a running water sound early in the morning and couldn't figure out what it was. When we got up, it was raining and the running water was from the Chinese gutters overflowing every now and then.
We are scattered throughout the town in three hotels so we had to walk to breakfast at the main hotel. I was soaked when I got there. Decided to find an internet café and park for awhile. Just as I was finishing, it rained hard and for a long time. Water was running down the streets in rivers. So I stayed for a while longer, then just decided to head back to my hotel. I bought an umbrella so I wouldn't be thoroughly drenched again since I had just dried out.
I only had to walk two blocks and it took me over an hour and a half because every cafe and shop had Odyssey people in them and I'd see friends and would have to stop and talk. Even escorted one fellow to the shop where I bought my umbrella so he could get one. My last stop was a café to eat lunch with Phil and Shirley. [Photo369] Since I was chilled again, I decided, why not.
An American father, son and daughter came in shortly after I sat down and talked to us. The boy was 11 or so and so outgoing. He is a first class world traveler, believe me. It was interesting to talk with him. The father taught English at a university here in China and the boy spoke Chinese and could read it. I was impressed. They apparently have lived in many places and felt very much at home here.
I spent the afternoon reading on my bed and just relaxing, hoping that it won't be raining this hard tomorrow. The forecast is not good. [Photo370]
Friday 20 October 2000 (Day 294 - Yangshou, China to Guilin, China)
It rained all night and rained all day but Denise, Shirley
and I toughed it out and rode all 61 km. [Photo371] Luckily we had a very short
day but still it was a draining day. I was covered with sand
from my helmet to my shoes. Took me an hour to rinse out all the
sand from everything. But we had fun. It was a warm, steady rain
and the road was good with a nice wide shoulder.
We got in about noon and had the afternoon to clean up and relax. And we have a decent hotel this time which is a great plus. The 40 riders who went off on a northern China trip for six days got back this afternoon and joined us so now I have my scrabble buddies back.
We spent an hour or so catching up on each other's experiences. Moods are high in spite of the weather and everyone has side trips planned for tomorrow in this beautiful area. This is a geologic paradise. So much to see.
Mileage: 38.3 / 8,145.8 (Today / Cumulative) [KM: 61.7 / 13,109.3]