Al Young - Odyssey 2000 Journal

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November:   1    2    3    4    5    6    7    8    9    10 


Wednesday 1 November 2000 (Day 306 - Train ride from Hue, Vietnam to Nha Trang, Vietnam)

Many of us took a pre-arranged city tour in the morning which took us to the Thien Mu Pagoda [Photo395] and the Citadel. We returned just in time to load the buses and head to the train station. [Photo396] [Photo397] [Photo398] [Photo399]

Sat around (the ol' hurry up and wait syndrome) for a good hour before boarding the train, then sat on the train for an hour before it took off. On the train, Marguerita, Charlie, Alan, and I played cards til past dinner time, then scrabble, then off to bed. Time went pretty fast but we kept busy the whole time. I read for a couple of hours before trying to sleep which was another hopeless case. Long legs in bus and train seats just don't make it.

We arrived in Nha Trang about 5AM. We were along the coast for several hours of daylight and was it ever beautiful. We climbed way up and watched the whitecaps get smaller and smaller. Very beautiful coastline. Then we went back down and darkness came upon us so I don't know what we missed from then on.

We are all itching to get on our bikes tomorrow. We are tired of sitting and not getting any exercise.


Continue with TKA?

Have you decided to continue? Are you willing to pay the additional $3,000 after all that you have spent already?

--Gary Scheer

My accident blew my budget all to heck but if you don't count that, I tried really hard to stay within my $500 per month budget. That doesn't count the expenses incurred when my renter left and I had to cover utility bills. So I can't give a figure right now until I go home and sort out everything.

At this time, yes, I'd spend another $3,000 to finish out the year.


Thursday 2 November 2000 (Day 307 - Layover day in Nha Trang, Vietnam)

We arrived at our hotel from the train at about 6AM. Ate breakfast while waiting for room assignments to be prepared. At 7AM, we started unloading bikes and gear bags and by 9AM, everything was pretty much done.

First thing we all do is inspect our bikes for damage. I've been lucky until today. I had a front flat tire and when checking to see why, I found that something had rubbed for a long time on my rim and actually filed a notch in it and wore a hole in the brand new tire that I put on when we got to China. I immediately showed it to the bike mechanics and they said it would be replaced by TKA.

So this afternoon, I spent two hours in the mechanic's line waiting to get a new front wheel, tire and tube. I had to change the tire myself but at least I didn't have to pay for the damage. I wasn't too happy since it was a brand new tire and I don't think the new one is as good but that's the way it goes.


Marguerita, Alan, and I spent about three hours on the beach today, reading and sleeping. We took a walk downtown late this afternoon so got a little exercise. Had choir practice before dinner and then we were entertained by the Vietnamese at dinner.
[Photo400] [Photo401] We're all so tired tonight that lights will be out by 8:30PM again. Tomorrow we ride.

Walked 4.0 km today / 473.5 km total (2.5 mi / 294.2 mi)


TKA Bailout

Can you share with us your feelings and position on the TKA bailout.

--Norm Baird

I'm frustrated, mad, semi-depressed, but not going to dwell on what's happened. In the brochures, he warned us that fuel costs could rise and that there could be a surcharge at sometime. I don't know what was said in the contract. I don't have a copy here.

I'm just not happy with the way it was handled and that he waited so long to tell us and then only gave us two options, pay another $3,000 or go home. I feel the whole thing could have been avoided if he had been up front with us a lot sooner.

Mistakes were made on the first two flights, causing more money to be spent. Japan was a fiasco. There's a lot more involved than just fuel costs in my opinion.


Friday 3 November 2000 (Day 308 - Nha Trang, Vietnam to Da Lat, Vietnam (pedal to Phan Rang, bus to De Lat))

We ate breakfast and had to stand around and wait quite a while for the gear truck to open so we could load our bags. That was a pain. We all wanted to get started early because it was hot. But, alas, we had to wait, or take the chance our bag would not get loaded.

I followed Denise and Marguerita out of town but there were about 20 of us who got lost and cycled around in circles for half an hour. So we added 5 km. We were riding on the main street through town and there had to be 20-25 bicycles or motor scooters to every car. It was so neat. It was just a sea of bicycles with a car or truck thrown in once in a while. And this was a 4-lane highway.

However, the cyclists and scooter drivers were almost as bad as car drivers, weaving in and out and getting really close. But it was the most fun I've had cycling in a big city. Denise led us and once we got out of town, we flew. We didn't realize until later that we had a tail wind so we just thought we were hot stuff. Oh, well.

After checkpoint, we stopped at a restaurant for lunch and/or cold drink. We had lots of time to kill since we knew we'd probably wait quite a while to be bussed. Turned out, we had several afternoon delays. Marguerita's chain came off twice and Denise broke a spoke. So we took longer than planned. Once we arrived at the bussing point, we were too late to catch the bus heading out. So we were first on the next bus and had to wait almost an hour to leave.

One of our Vietnamese guides was taking orders for beer or coke and sending locals out to get it for us on their motorcycles. He had quite a little enterprise going there. We were extremely hot but didn't realize until our tour guide told us later that it was 37 degrees Celsius outside, which is equal to about 101 degrees F. Good heavens. No wonder we were so hot. Only thing that kept us going was that breeze.

The road to De Lat was a nice back-country road but pretty torn up. Big pot holes where the pavement had broken up so it was slow going in the bus. Took us 3½ hrs.

All day long we had seen mountains inland and we were headed right up into them. Our guide told us the weather would be much cooler, as in cold, and I thought to myself, YEAH. We drove towards the mountains and then went straight up them. A few people decided to ride the second half which was another 120+ km.

Nice thing about the hill was that it was cooler. The second half had two major climbs totaling about 5,000 ft elevation gain. Total for the day if they did both parts (only seven finished it) was 232 km or almost 140 miles. [Photo402]

Organist Bill and Young Dave were two who finished and they were whipped. I admire anyone who even attempted it in that heat today. The optional second half of the day was really a separate ride all by itself.

Our hotel rooms are really nice tonight. We have two double beds, a sitting room, foyer, and huge bathroom, complete with TV, and all kinds of furniture. It's a small apartment. [Photo403]

Mileage: 74.1 / 8,465.8 (Today / Cumulative) [KM: 119.2 / 13,624.3]
Elevation gain: basically flat all day


Contract Wording?

What was in the initial agreement when you signed up with TKA? Don't they have to deliver what they promised?

--Alice Horton

I do not have a copy of the contract here so can't check specific wording. For the most part, he has delivered what was promised: a place to sleep and two meals a day, not always the cleanest of accommodations or ample food, but adequate.


Refund?

I have read about the possible premature ending of the trip and your mixed feelings about what to do. Perhaps the riders could ask themselves this:

If airline fuel prices had decreased, instead of increased, do you think TKA would be offering to give you money back because you had overpaid?

--Rides2c

Probably not.


Saturday 4 November 2000 (Day 309 - Layover day in Da Lat, Vietnam)

Margherita, Alan, and I walked around a bit after breakfast. [Photo404] Went through the market area where they sold absolutely anything you could possibly want. It got hot fast so after an hour, I went back to the room and read. I didn't see a need to get all hot and sweaty if I didn't have to.

When Alan returned, we practiced a long time and then took a break and played a game of scrabble. We had choir practice before dinner and then a meeting after dinner. We didn't learn anything new, just a repeat of our options as TKA sees them. We received forms to fill out to indicate our individual intentions and that's about it.


EFIs?

Are there any riders left who have pedaled all miles?

--Dan Zenner

To my knowledge, the same group that I reported last time is still hanging in there. Sad thing is, not all of them will continue with TKA to New Zealand which I think is a real bummer.


Banana Hatred

How could ANYONE not like bananas?? Where did that start?

--Sandra Carpenter, Connecticut

Believe it or not, there is one other rider on this trip who does not like bananas but doesn't have quite the same aversion to them that I have. I was told that when my mother fed me strained bananas as baby, I spit them back out in her face so I guess this is something I was born with. I really can't even stand the smell of them.

I'm happy to say that most of my friends are really sympathetic to my idiosyncrasy and try not to torture me too much.


Sunday 5 November 2000 (Day 310 - Da Lat, Vietnam to Phan Thiet, Vietnam (pedal to Phan Rang, bus to Phan Thiet))

Had a super restless night. I was awake from 1:30AM on, and finally just got up soon after 5AM. I hate it when that happens. But I was on the road early, which was good because it got hot quickly.

The first 30 km were mostly uphill, then 30 km of down. The rest of the day was flat. It was 39 degrees Celsius when we got on the bus. Our group of Ed, Willma, Inge, Sharon, Randal and I were considering riding part of the 156 km to get to camp, but the heat killed that idea. There were a few who did it.

Da Lat was cooler way up high but not even close to being long sleeve weather like we were told. Our hotel is on the beach tonight, but a slight comedown from last night's superb accommodations. We have a bed and hot water so I'm not complaining.

Mileage: 68.3 / 8,534.1 (Today / Cumulative) [KM: 109.9 / 13,734.2]
Elevation gain: basically flat all day


How have you changed?

As you near the end of the journey, can you tell us any changes, for better of for worse, you can detect on yourself? Undoubtedly you must be in better physical condition, but is it noticeable for someone who knows you well?

i.e. How many pounds have you lost? Any physiological changes? How about psychologically, are you more relaxed, tense, patient? Given the nature of bicycling, have you become a solitaire, introverted person, or more sociable? Are you now more contemplative or philosophical? In general, have you acquired significant wisdom? i.e. Do you have greater cultural understanding/tolerance now? Are you a better, richer (by that I don't mean economically) person? Is your love for bicycling still there, or are you ready to retire (from cycling) as soon as you get back. Lastly, $30K+ for some is a significant investment. Was it worth it?

--Humberto R. Cortes

  • # of lbs lost - Unfortunately NONE.
  • Physiological changes - Nothing real obvious.
  • Am I more relaxed, less tense, more patient - My friends say NOT.
  • Am I more solitaire, introverted or social - Definitely more outgoing and more social.
  • Am I more contemplative or philosophical - I don't think so.
  • Do I have a greater cultural understanding and tolerance - Definitely. Everyone should travel to some third-world countries and see how the rest of the world lives.
  • Am I a better person - I'd like to think so. I've certainly learned a lot.
  • Was it worth the $30+ grand. - YES. This has been the best year of my life. I wouldn't trade it for anything.

  • Monday 6 November 2000 (Day 311 - Layover day in Phan Thiet, Vietnam)

    This was a fun, lazy day spent mostly by the pool with friends. [Photo405] We swam, lay in the sun, talked, read books, played scrabble and cards, ate and just had a good time. Alan, Margherita, and I were later joined by Charmaine, Linda, and Susan with never a dull moment the entire six+ hours, with all of us type A's being so competitive.

    When I first got in the pool, I had planned to sit in the kiddie pool and read my book so I stepped in and my foot immediately took off without me. It was so slippery that I did a slow motion, not too graceful slide into the water, all the while holding my book up so it wouldn't get wet. I got laughs from all around the pool. It was funny.

    Whenever we got hot, we'd just cool off in the water. None of us even walked down to the beach because we didn't want to be hassled by mobile vendors. Last time, we were constantly bothered by people wanting to sell us things and I wasn't in the mood for that again. Besides, the pool was clean and we had nice chairs and umbrellas. This is the most relaxed I've ever been on a layover day.

    We had choir practice before dinner, then a candlelight buffet. We were so exhausted from the day's activities (ha ha), that the light was out by 8PM.


    Tuesday 7 November 2000 (Day 312 - Phan Thiet, Vietnam to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam (pedal half way, then bus))

    Ed, Willma, Dr.Sharon and I headed out about 6:15AM and it was already hot. It was so cool going through rush hour traffic with nothing but bicycles on the streets. The bus traffic once we got out of town was pretty heavy and boy do they love their horns. I decided today that the trucks and buses with the longest and loudest horns get the right of way. Some of them just lay on the horns until they intimidate any and all traffic in their path. It's really irritating when you are riding because the noise level is so loud. For two days now I've had a headache and I know it's from the noise.

    Here in Vietnam, the people use the roads for drying their crops as well as for transportation. The shoulders on highway 1 are nice and wide and it's very common to see the entire width of the shoulder for 20-30 foot sections covered with rice, [Photo407] beans, corn, palm fronds, [Photo406] sugar cane, etc. Often you'll see kids ride their bicycles through the rice. Of course, these shoulders have been traveled by oxen and other animals so you wonder about how clean the food is once it is dried.

    And today, I saw the cutest thing. A boy and a man were herding a paddling of ducks on the shoulder of the road and the critters were all lined up like they do this every day. The older ducks were in front followed by younger, but feathered, what I'd call "teenage" ducks. Of course, I always talk to any animals I see on or alongside the road so when I went by, I said quack-quack, quack-quack and the boy's eyes lit up. I was so impressed that these ducks could stay on the shoulder and not go all over everywhere. We rode right by them and they didn't even react to us. When I had my pet ducks, they never did that.

    It was 38 degrees Celsius when we boarded the bus today, down a couple of degrees from yesterday. Couldn't tell. Hot is HOT.

    We arrived at the hotel before they were ready to assign rooms so Marguerita, Denise, Alan, and I went to the restaurant and ordered lunch. Those three each ordered a ham and cheese sandwich and an order of fries. I ordered just fries. When the orders came, I got a plate of fries and they got 4 slices of ham, 2 slices of cheese, and about 8 French fries. No bread. So they asked for bread and were finally brought 4 pieces of toast. Also, tried to communicate that they had ordered a plate of fries each.

    They, after what seemed forever, finally got one plate of fries among them so they tried to say they wanted 3 plates of fries, not just one. So later they brought out three more plates of fries. Too funny. We ended up with 5 plates of fries and 8 slices of toast by the time we were done. We ate it all. Not a problem. Washed it all down with a couple cold beers. Nice way to spend the afternoon. Spent a half hour at an internet café after dinner and then played a game of scrabble before hitting the sack.

    I made my decision today to continue the trip with TKA as originally planned. I'll be paying the additional $3,000 and go home as planned after the Rose Bowl Parade. For me, this is the only way to finish my year, with or without some of my dearest friends. Saying goodbye to many friends in Singapore will be an extremely emotional time but life will go on. I just hate to think we will have to go through that again at the very end. I sincerely hope to keep in touch with and visit several with whom I've become very close. This is only the end of a chapter, not the whole book.

    Mileage: 67.6 / 8,601.7 (Today / Cumulative) [KM: 108.8 / 13,843.0]
    Elevation gain: basically flat


    Wednesday 8 November 2000 (Day 313 - Layover day in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam)

    Marguerita, Alan, Neil, and I all went on a tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels today. These were used during the Vietnam War by the Vietnamese. The tunnel system was over 200 km long and consisted of living, meeting, and fighting quarters. We went through two sets of tunnels. [Photo410]

    The first was the easier one where you had to bend over but it was still relatively easy to get through. It became really dark and at one point, the people in front of me quit talking and I plowed right into the back of Neil. I had absolutely no idea he was there. What a surprise we both got. The second tunnel was much harder to crawl through because you had to crawl [Photo411] [Photo412] on all fours. It was dark and unbearably hot. For some reason I thought the tunnels would be cool but they were sweltering. When I came up out of the second one, [Photo413] I was so hot that sweat was running off my forehead. I can't imagine anyone living down in there.

    They had a sunken kitchen, [Photo414] which was exposed to the outside, and a completely sunken, cave-like hospital. We saw pictures of how some of their tunnels emptied into the Saigon River. And all these tunnels were dug by hand with an trenching tool and a basket. They were started back in the 1940s when they fought the French and then were expanded for the Vietnam War. Quite an impressive work. We also saw examples of the booby traps [Photo408] [Photo409] the Vietnamese used. They were horrible. I hope my pictures turn out because it would be hard to describe them. [Photo415]

    As we drove through the big city today, it was fascinating to see what people carried on their bikes and scooters. Two fellows were on a scooter carrying a huge snake. It was at least 8 ft long and 4-6 inches in diameter at the largest spot. The guy in back had it all wrapped around him, trying to keep it from wiggling off the scooter. Unreal. Two other guys had a 6 ft door, complete with glass in it, wedged between them. Another guy had a huge bundle of blue jeans, I'd say 4 ft wide and 3 ft high. It is just amazing how much they carry and their unique ways of tying stuff on so it doesn't fall off.

    We were so glad to get back to our hotel room where it was cooler. We watched CNN election coverage, played cards, practiced some more. Then had to walk about six blocks to dinner. Crossing the busy streets was probably the most dangerous thing we've done in a while. Red lights and right of way means nothing. A crosswalk is just a spot where white lines are on the road. It was hairy. Came back and played some more cards, then hit the bed early again.


    Thursday 9 November 2000 (Day 314 - Flight from Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam to Phuket, Thailand)

    We awoke early, read in bed and finally loaded our gear on the trucks just before breakfast. We visited the internet to check for last minute mail before returning to the hotel to stand around and wait for the buses. I want to thank everyone who wrote and encouraged me to go on with TKA. It's nice to know that my readers agreed with my decision to continue.

    Then we waited in line at the airport, waited to go through security, waited to get our ticket and on and on. Seems like all we did all morning was stand in line. We left about 12:15PM and arrived at 2:00PM, a nice short flight with lunch served. It went really fast, only to stand in line through immigration, customs, ATM, to load gear, and for the buses again.

    It was HOT out of the terminal and for some reason, all the buses stopped outside the terminal gates for more than a half hour and just sat alongside the road. No air conditioning or ventilation on the bus. It was stifling. I slept almost all the way to the hotel. Too hot even to read.

    Two interesting things happened on the plane today. I left my seat to talk to a staff person up in first class and when I returned, there were three banana peels on my seat. Neil was sitting next to me and I immediately accused him of being the guilty culprit. Of course, he denied it and Charmaine said he was innocent and that I should talk to Alan. Well, I had just passed Alan and he was asleep so I really didn't think it was he this time. Neil had to remove and bag the peels and then brush off my seat before I'd sit down. The nerve of it all.

    Later I left my seat to make an announcement to the choir and when I returned, there was a whole banana inside a plastic dish from lunch sitting on my seat. Again, I was sure Alan was innocent. But I still don't know for sure who is to get credit for throwing me into a tizzy fit twice in less than two hours. I'll find out though.

    Once we arrived at the hotel, we had another long wait until we received our room assignments. It was so hot and nowhere to go. Most rooms were three to a room but we lucked out and only have two. What a luxury.

    After dinner, [Photo416] we had choir practice. [Photo417] Then Alan took me out and showed me the gay bars. Our hotel sits right in the gay bar district so we only had to go one block to find the action. This was an education for me.


    My Impressions of Vietnam:

    My first impression of Vietnam was that it is highly populated by people and bicycles and that the people are very curious about us and very proud of their country. There are so few cars, quite a few motor scooters and millions of bicycles of all kinds. The highway is shared by all, including the local people drying food on the highway shoulders and the animals pulling carts or being herded here and there.

    The people are friendly and seem to be very happy. Living conditions vary from palm-frond-roofed huts to brick buildings, most without windows or doors. It is very hot with lush growth everywhere with occasional rice paddies. Beautiful countryside.

    We lucked out with no rain while there even though major flooding was happening in the south.
    Mass transportation is mostly by slow trains, which the locals laugh about. They just accept that it takes days to go anywhere. Bicycles and motor scooters were going faster than the train we were on at times. It was kind of funny but sad.

    I enjoyed Vietnam but have no desire to go back.


    Friday 10 November 2000 (Day 315 - Layover day in Phuket, Thailand)

    After taking care of bike details this morning, Margherita, Alan, and I took off for a walk down Patong Beach. Margherita decided to go wind surfing and signed up for a half hour instead of an hour because she and I had a snorkeling tour planned at noon. We laughed ourselves silly as she headed off into the ocean. After numerous attempts, she did take off and went sailing way off to the south. We kept watching as she became a smaller and smaller dot.

    After 45 minutes and the fact that time was running out, I left to go back to the hotel while Alan waited for her hopeful return in time to do the tour. Although, at the time I left, it seemed highly unlikely she'd make it in in time. At 5 minutes before noon, she comes running into the lobby and we ended up holding the van for her while she changed and grabbed the essentials. Later, I found out that she flagged down a motorized vehicle that pulled her into shore. The wind was all wrong and kept taking her further away from shore rather than into shore.

    We were bussed to a boat, [Photo419] then took a 45 minute ride out to an island where we snorkeled for a half hour, then back to a beautiful sandy beach where we were able to swim and lay in the sun for an hour. What a relaxing day. I have to hand it to Margherita, she made me feel safe and comfortable in the water. The boat stopped and we were told, "Here we are, just jump in." Ahhhh. I don't swim. No boundaries with which to stay in and the water was rough. So Margherita held my hand the whole time we were in the water. The coral and fish were different from what we saw in Australia and I loved every minute of it.

    As we drove out of the Patong area, we went over some big hills, which concerned us because we found out today that our first day's ride is 170 km now, not 15 km as previously planned, because for some reason TKA didn't get the ferry that we were scheduled to take. So we are thinking there is no way out of town unless we climb major steep hills for the first few km. These hills are steeper than 10%. They go straight up. Can't wait.

    I didn't know what to expect, but Thailand seems to be made up of islands that are mountainous projections right out of the ocean. Beautiful, but the roads are steep. The mountains are covered in lush greenery with an occasional exposed rock cliff. The beaches are white sand and the water is pristine and clear. Absolutely gorgeous.

    We returned at 5:15PM, "just in time" for the 5 o'clock choir practice. (Sarcasm. I hate being late.) Then dinner and Alan and I went out on the town with Gary and Cheryl til almost 1AM. Lots to see. The night life is hopping. [Photo418]


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