Tuesday 21 November 2000 (Day 326 - Kijal, Malaysia to Kuantan, Malaysia)
We woke up to a torrential downpour and it continued for hours. Several of us 'early' riders waited in the lobby for it to slow down. [Photo461-462] Margherita and I didn't leave until 9:30AM and Organist Bill and Win left just before us. People were stopping and taking pictures of us just sitting in the lounge because it was so unusual.
It was definitely a monsoon rain. It was only raining lightly when we left and we lucked out the rest of the day. The roads were full of huge puddles so we still got plenty wet but at least it wasn't pouring in our faces. However, about 4PM, it let loose again, so anyone still on the road got it big time.
We had choir practice before dinner and in the middle of a part where we hum, (where I'm mentally going over a speech I have prepared), one of the choir members started talking, actually reading a speech they had prepared in my honor. It was touching. Tears were flowing and it was an emotional moment for many of us. After we finished the medley, they presented me with a gift, as was described in the letter as "having symbolic meaning. It is an almost perfect circle signifying the unity and harmony you have created; it is bright and lustrous reflecting the joy the chorus has brought both to its members and its audience. Finally, there is a little sparkle which we hope will remind you of the sparkle in our eyes when, for the final time, we 'flush those fifty toilets'." They gave me a gold bracelet which is beautiful. I will miss these guys tremendously.
When we were lined up for dinner, [Photo463-464] there were half a dozen photographers from various newspapers there to take a group picture so we all lined up on the steps of the hotel and flashes went off for several minutes. Odyssey is quite a celebrity here in Malaysia.
I used the internet for an hour after dinner, then met Margherita and Alan for a scrabble game and some cards. Another full day.
As of bedtime, it was raining ferociously again.
Walked 2.0 km today / 478.5 km total (1.2 mi / 297.3 mi)
Mileage: 59.0 / 9,096.2 (Today / Cumulative) [KM: 94.9 / 14,638.9]
Elevation gain: 450 ft
Al, I'm curious to know if Odyssey riders worked out plans to vote in the Presidential election. Did they have difficulties with the process? Is there very much conversation about the current situation
regarding the counting of votes?--Kay McKnab, Emporia, KS
I haven't heard of a single soul who voted. We really didn't have access to the campaigns so maybe others felt as I did, that I was too uninformed to vote.
Is there a budding romance happening between you and Alan???? (Enquiring minds (ok, nosy ones) want to know...)
No, we're just good friends.
What is your high score after a "good" game of scrabble???--Christa Scheibley
Anywhere from 275-360.
I was wondering how you handle the money thing? Is a VISA debit or ATM debit card with a checking account most useful to withdraw cash at ATMs? What brand of VISA debit is most useful? Cirrus, Plus etc? I would think most places in Europe have ATMs. Then, are U.S.D. travelers checks most useful in places that do not have ATMs?
I have used only one card, a VISA debit card which is a Check Plus. It is not a Cirrus card, but Cirrus is very popular. I have often thought that it would have been a good idea to have a back up card, but I have been lucky so far that my card has always worked in the ATM's. I've only had to go inside a bank once to get money. [At home, Craig reconciles my checking account, transferring funds as needed to maintain a reasonable account balance.]
Do you know of any people or organizations offering self paced tours? We cannot afford most (for profit) group tour bicycle trips we have found offered in Europe. We are planning a trip on our own now, but don't have much European travel experience and would like to find recommended bicycling routes and ways to reduce the hassles of language and of setting up accommodations.
--Marvin Butler, Racine, WI <mbutler@ttcsp.textron.com>
[Perhaps some of our readers might have suggestions for Marvin.]I would suggest checking out the Lonely Planet guides. Everyone who has gone off route has used that and maps of the areas, some of which have very good bike path information. I can't really recommend any one person or way. Sounds like you are checking out lots of different resources and that's the advice I would have given you.
How did you get connected with Craig to do your web work?
--Phil Lawson, Minneapolis, MN
Before I left for the Odyssey trip, Craig convinced me that I should have a web page. I resisted a little, wondering, "Who could possibly care about me and what I did?" So being his idea, of course, he volunteered to set it up and maintain it.
I am not computer literate and really have no interest other than the basics and e-mail. I had no idea (and I don't think he did either) that it would become this popular.
At one time I asked him three questions:
- Did you ever think my page would become this popular? No
- Did you ever think it would be this much work and so time-consuming? No
- Are you sorry you suggested it? No (Whew!)
I am extremely grateful for all the work he has done and I have met some pretty fantastic people through my web page.
Once again, thank you Craig for believing in me enough to encourage me to have a web page and for maintaining it for me.
Wednesday 22 November 2000 (Day 327 - Kuantan, Malaysia to Kuala Rompin, Malaysia)
No rain today, just nice cloud cover. A very pleasant ride with Ed and Willma and we just took our good old sweet time. Ended up having to wait for rooms so spent time at the pool. [Photo475] Such a life we are leading. We have had some really nice hotels and pool-side areas recently. It is a nice way to end the days.
Margherita, Alan, and I played cards and scrabble before dinner. About 4:30PM it started raining big time and chased us inside. It was a very enjoyable afternoon by the pool.
At dinner, there were the usual bananas for dessert and unbeknownst to me, Alan snuck a couple out and planted them in the room. I found one in my baggie of M&M's which are now probably contaminated and one sitting in my helmet, of all places. Charmaine is not innocent as she claims she is since she was in the room when I found them. Guilty by association as far as I'm concerned. Of course, she denied having anything to do with it. Fat chance.
Played more scrabble after dinner and listened to the heavy rain. Hope it stops by morning again.
Mileage: 80.2 / 9,176.4 (Today / Cumulative) [KM: 129.0 / 14,767.9]
Elevation gain: Flat all
day
Thursday 23 November 2000 (Day 328 - Kuala Rompin, Malaysia to past Mersing, Malaysia)
Went out to my bike this morning and what do I see, a banana in my DRG holder. It never ends. I gave it to Alan, assuming he'd want it back. Of course, he pretended to know nothing about it.
I rode out of camp in a big bunch, not having anyone in particular to ride with. Hooked up with Ed and Willma for a couple km. Then Alan came along and I tagged on to follow for as long as I could. Ended up riding all the way in with him. He had to slow down a bit on the hills for me (last 40 km) but I did pretty darn well. He always rides alone and never waits for anyone so I felt honored that he'd wait for me.
The scenery improved today when we got into the hills. I actually enjoy riding the nice rolling hills because it allows me to use a variety of muscles and seat positions. I get bored on the flats.
We had our last real choir practice tonight. We had to have it in someone else's room because we had no air conditioning. It was cooler outside than in our room. After dinner, the resort moved us to another room. Thank goodness.
Several riders rode 225 km today but we bailed out at the 125 km bus ride point, as did most. Too darn hot to go that far.
Happy Thanksgiving to everyone.
Mileage: 77.7 / 9,254.0 (Today / Cumulative) [KM: 125.0 / 14,892.9]
Elevation gain: 1,650 ft
Friday 24 November 2000 (Day 329 - Desaru, Malaysia to Singapore)
Woke up to pouring down rain again. But by the time we left, it had stopped. I rode with Alan and Margherita to the ferry, fast and furiously. We were the 4th, 5th, and 6th ones there and soon after we arrived, it dumped again. We just lucked out. Once on the ferry we hooked up with Dave and played Euchre for the hour trip. Then we had another 5 km to the hotel. I cleaned 3 bikes and found the ATM and photo shop before checking into my room.
While on the ferry, one of the riders asked if Alan and I could sing a wedding song for her for the fashion show tonight. She wanted to model her wedding dress, complete with bridesmaids and wanted some music. (The choir had been scheduled to sing at her wedding in Hawaii before the trip came to an abrupt end.) So Alan and I had to come up with a song and practice. Poor Alan has had a scratchy throat for three days and today it cracked every once in a while so we had to play with keys to find just the right place so he could sing. It wasn't our best but we did OK.
Then I spent a little quiet time before the choir "run through" practice. I lost it at rehearsal and had a laughing fit when Alan's voice cracked big time on a solo. It was just too funny and I could not keep a straight face. However, he did fine at the performance. The choir was well received and they did a great job. I was proud of them. We even received a long standing ovation.
The fashion show was a hoot, not the usual to be sure. And dinner was good. We also got to see video number three, which in my opinion is the best so far. So most riders stayed up until the end of the festivities since this was the last night for all of Odyssey to be together, as we know Odyssey. Everyone seemed to have a good time.
Riders start leaving tomorrow as early as 6AM and will continue to trickle out of Singapore for the next three days. Sad for sure.
Mileage: 25.2 / 9,279.2 (Today / Cumulative) [KM: 40.5 / 14,933.4]
Again, Malaysia struck me as being more developed and 'less third worldish.' Very beautiful country and the people went out of their way to welcome us in every town or resort where we stayed. The people are proud of their country and had tours set up for us every day.
The beach resorts were very nice, many of them very new and definitely destination oriented.
As we traveled south, we got closer and closer to the equator so it became hotter and more humid every day. And the rain followed us. Places we had been became flooded just a couple of days after we were there.
Malaysia had more western world influence and it was much easier to find services and familiar food. Squat toilets disappeared, for which we were thankful.
Saturday 25 November 2000 (Day 330 - Layover day in Singapore)
We tried to sleep in but were unsuccessful. Hard to break old habits, I guess. Denise, Margherita, Organist Bill, Alan, and I took taxis to the mall for some quick shopping. Lasted less than two hours and we were so efficient. We even got there before most stores were open. We just needed a couple of things and soon got bored with the shopping scene.
Came home and tried to relax, used the internet, repacked our New Zealand bags which finally arrived mid-afternoon from Hong Kong in preparation for going home or wherever. Dinner was outside at a local restaurant. Then came back and wrapped our bikes in preparation for the commercial flights we are all taking now.
We had time for one game of duplicate scrabble. Margherita and Charmaine beat Alan and me big time. We tried to go to bed at a decent time but ended up talking until way after midnight. I woke up at 3AM and never did get back to sleep. [Fellow Odyssey Riders: Photo476-496]
Sunday 26 November 2000 (Day 331 - Layover-flight day in Singapore (to Sydney))
After waking up at 3AM, I never got back to sleep. When the alarm went off at 5:30AM, I was so glad to be able to get up. I went with Alan to the airport and said goodbye and then returned to the hotel. I did OK until my taxi driver started talking to me. He jabbered all the way to the hotel. I went to breakfast, thinking that being with other friends would make me feel better but I lost it temporarily.
After breakfast, Margherita, Charlie, Judy [Photo497] and I accompanied Ed and Willma by bus and train to the downtown area. The four of us had planned on visiting the Botanic Gardens but it took so long to get down there that we didn't have time to walk from the train to the gardens and then spend any time there. So we walked to the Raffles Hotel, [Photo498] home of the Singapore Sling, took a couple of pictures, and then went back home. We had to check out of our hotel rooms by 3PM so that's all we saw of Singapore. It was just fun being together.
Once we checked out, we just had to sit around and wait to load the gear and bikes. We were bussed to the airport but the bikes didn't show up for almost another hour. So we had to stand around and wait for bikes. For some reason, we didn't even get to board the plane until after we were scheduled to take off. It's been a long day.
Alan left first, then Charmaine and Linda left while we were downtown and we said goodbye to Ed and Willma at the train station. All these friends are going home. Margherita left just before I did and she's going on to New Zealand on her own with seven other riders. So all my close friends are gone and it's been an emotional day. I really tried to be tough but when those that you've spent almost every waking hour with for so long are suddenly not there, it's a lonely feeling. So the next five weeks will be spent reliving the good times and bonding with others more. I am really going to miss all the above mentioned friends more than I thought I would.
I am so glad I came on this trip. I have met the most incredible, diverse, fantastic people. Never did I anticipate meeting the kinds of people I've met, nor making the fantastic friendships I've made. There is so much I want to do, so many places I want to go, so many people I want to keep in touch with. I'm temporarily overwhelmed with everything that has happened to me and the experiences I've had. The people made this trip.
Never did I think for a minute that traveling around the world would mean meeting so many genuine, friendly, well meaning people. To all my friends who left in Singapore, I'm going to miss you like you'll never know. Thank you for being such an important part of my life. And to my web page readers who are hooked on this experience vicariously, take the time and money and explore the world, experience first hand what's out there. It is the only way to go.
And thank you, all of you, for believing in me and encouraging me to continue. It means a lot to me to know that you believe in what I'm doing. Never once did I ever consider going home early and giving up this experience of a lifetime. And some of you have helped make it easier to continue. Thank you.
My impression of Singapore is of a city that has its act together. Beautiful, clean modern buildings and not a piece of trash anywhere. Four million people there with a great bus and train system. I only wish I'd had more time to explore the city itself. The architecture was some of the nicest I've seen and definitely the best in Asia.
The area uses four different languages but English speaking people are everywhere making it a very friendly place to be.
There is such a contrast between Singapore and Hong Kong and I guess I expected them to be very similar. The only thing they have in common is the large number of people in the city.
Monday 27 November 2000 (Day 332 - Flight from Sydney, Australia to Christchurch, New Zealand)
We were finally served dinner on the plane about midnight. I was so tired, yet so keyed up. I am still missing my friends -- just knowing they aren't here to talk to. I had many late night discussions with Alan and could always talk about anything. It always helped me to relax.
I did get about three good hours of sleep and then they served breakfast. We lost three hours in time changes so the night was really short. I was feeling like a zombie when we landed at the new time of 7AM.
57 riders plus 12 staff flew into Sydney but we had to stand around and wait to get boarding passes to New Zealand (NZ). We were divided among four different flights from Sydney. We needed proof that we had a ticket out of NZ before we could get a boarding pass and for some reason, there was only a list showing we'd bought return tickets. We don't actually have the tickets themselves. So there was a delay in getting our boarding passes. Fortunately, most of us had a 10-12 hour layover in the Sydney airport so there was time to work out the bugs.
I was going to try to leave the airport and check out the town since I didn't get to do it when we were here before but it was such a hassle with customs and getting back for our tickets, etc., I just decided to stay in the airport and kill time. I played scrabble with Sandy and Elbert. Started nodding off and almost fell off my chair so decided to take a nap.
Used the free internet service available in the airport lounges. We got into Christchurch at 11:40PM, NZ time, and finally got all our bags and settled about 2AM. Denise and I took advantage of the free washers and dryers here at the university dorms and did laundry. We've both been doing our laundry by hand for the last 6-8 weeks so we figured they were due to be washed properly.
The weather is glorious here, cool and not humid. I'm excited to be here and back in our tents tomorrow.
Another short, short night with only four hours of sleep. Had to get up and go to breakfast and then load gear and be on the bus by 10:00AM. I tried to read but dozed a little but not enough to say I had any real sleep.
We had one big bus and a couple sag vans for transporting our small family of riders. When the bus voted to stop, the last person on was always cheered and made to feel like, "Where have you been?" The camaraderie is really close and no one dares to rock the boat. This is one tight group of people. The mood is good, people are smiling, and we're glad to be here in New Zealand.
The scenery today went from mundane to almost awesome. We climbed over the mountains from the east side of the island to the west side and it just kept becoming more beautiful. Queenstown reminds me a lot of Jackson Hole, Wyoming, a tourist town set between mountains with all kinds of tourist-adventure stuff to do. Helicopter rides, bungee jumping, motorcycle tours, white water, etc., all compete for your time. I will probably hike up or take a tram ride to the top of one of the local mountains, [Photo499] eat lunch and walk back. The hill looks too steep to walk up but there is a road up the back side. I'll see whom I can get to go with me. It's a little chilly to be doing anything in the water, I think, and most of the other stuff does not interest me.
It rained off and on all day and is much cooler than where we've been the last six weeks. I'm loving it. We have a weather pool going on where if you participate, you guess how many days it is going to rain while we are here in New Zealand. The winner, (the one who is the closest without going over), will be treated to as much ice cream as he or she can eat in one sitting and the losers pay for it.
Well, I am known as the "Sunshine Lady" because I said only three days out of 19, whereas Charlie said 11. It starts tomorrow. I just have to think the sun is going to shine while we are here. It could go either way. This is late spring for them here and very similar to our weather back home in May, where it can be beautiful and warm or cold and ugly. I chose the former. I'm not a big ice cream eater so if I were to win, the losers would get off cheaply anyway.
We arrived at camp at 6:45PM, unloaded the gear truck and set up our tents in a drizzle, although a few people rented cabins because they think it is cold. I'm loving it so far. I can't wait to sleep in my tent tonight.
Wednesday 29 November 2000 (Day 334 - Layover day in Queenstown, New Zealand)
I had a great night's sleep in my tent. It was cool and we woke up to clear skies and gorgeous views. Couldn't ask for much more.
After breakfast, Denise and I did a few errands and then took the gondola up to the top of a mountain (no name that I could find) right on the edge of the city. Great views [Photo500-502] of Wakatika Lake and the surrounding snow-capped mountains. Reminds me so much of Jackson Hole, Wyoming from the top of the Snow King Ski area, which rises directly from the town of Jackson. I feel right at home.
We wanted to walk up, but the road was closed for some tree clearance, although we were able to walk down. While up there, we had lunch and watched a Kiwi Max film. I felt like I was right in the helicopter, small plane and river raft. What a trip. I think I might have to take a helicopter ride over one of the glaciers. That is a common tour here in these parts. New Zealand promises to be everything I expected and maybe more. I'm loving it.
Late this afternoon, Neil, Sandy, Pat, and I played scrabble. We finished two games before dinner.
Early this morning and then after dinner, I was visited by a male mallard duck. [Photo503] He came right up to my tent and ate bread and crackers out of my hand. So cute. I was quacking at him, coaxing him to me when Dr. Sharon walked by and thought I had lost my marbles. I'm a softie for feathered critters but I talk to all kinds of animals. Guess it is my farm upbringing. [See Al and her pet duck "Squirmy"]
As I sit here looking out over the lake at the mountains, I think how peaceful this is. A duckie to keep me company tops it off.
Plan to go to bed early tonight. Tomorrow is a hilly (mountainous) day and we haven't ridden for five days. Need to get rested.
Walked 5.6 km today / 484.1 km total (3.5 mi / 300.8 mi)
How many riders are continuing along with you and TKA for the remainder of Odyssey 2000? How many will continue biking but not with the TKA group? How many decided just to fly home from Singapore?
--Margaret Kelly, Minneapolis, MN
57 riders signed on and paid to finish the year with TKA. There are only four couples continuing. I'd say about an equal amount went off on their own to see New Zealand or other parts of Asia. The majority went home early.
What is the status of the Rose Parade now? Is the group still going to lead it and are many that went home coming to do so?
--Pat Minshall
As far as we know, it is still a go, but in light of the fact that the entire group would not be there, there has been some speculation as to whether a small portion of the original riders would be welcome. We are still planning on it at this time.
There are a few people who have expressed their intent to return for the Burbank finale party and to ride the parade, but only a very few.
Since you're now a pro in "biking in the rain" what kind of rain gear do you suggest?
--Pat Shirley, Minneapolis, MN
Well, in Asia, I didn't use anything because it was so warm. But in cooler places like New Zealand, definitely good rain gear like Mountain Equipment Co-op jackets or other Gore-Tex jackets are a must. Cheaper ones just don't keep you warm.
I'd say if you are going to buy something and think you'll use it a lot, go for the best. My mistake was in trying to get by with cheaper (and inferior) gear.
Thursday 30 November 2000 (Day 335 - Queenstown, New Zealand to Wanaka, New Zealand)
Last night just as I was about to turn in, Charlie said, "Hey, Al, here comes your duckie friend." I looked and the mallard drake was walking straight for my tent with his lady friend in tow. [Photo504] I quickly dug out my crackers and had a blast of a time. The drake wanted me to hold his crackers so he could take them from me, while the female wanted me to throw them to her. She'd catch them right out of the air. I was so impressed. They stayed for 15 minutes or so and had a great late night snack. People came by taking pictures of me in my tent feeding the ducks. So cool.
This morning we had to ride to breakfast and as I left camp, my shifter wouldn't work. So I stopped and asked Denise to look at it for me. She 'fixed it' and I rode off, only to have problems on the way to breakfast. So I cornered our mechanic and let him know I'd be there right after breakfast. Meanwhile, Denise agreed to follow me out-of-town and when I had problems, she rode it and proclaimed it fixed. [Photo507]
She said, "Are you sure you aren't trying to shift past the last gear?" I'm thinking to myself, "How dumb do I look?" But you know what, that's exactly what I was doing. Take me off my bike for five days and I forget how to shift. I never admitted to Denise that that was my problem. Boy am I glad I didn't go to the mechanic.
The gorgeous scenery [Photo508] reminded me of home, with high snow melt lakes and snow capped mountains looming from the valley floor. The air was cool and crisp, no humidity and so clear, it was pristine. The air even smelled good. I was in heaven all day. [Photo505]
Denise and I took our time and just lolly gagged along, stopping to eat and/or take pictures often. [Photo506] We got into town just in time to participate at a primary school where we talked to the kids. [Photo509] It was fun. After we told them a little about the trip, we opened it up to questions. There were eight Odyssey riders and six groups of kids. Some of them asked really good questions.
We had a road block about half way through today due to rock blasting. There was no one there when Shirl, Neil, Elisabeth, and Jim got there so Shirl convinced the rest to go ahead and go through. When they got to the other end, a lady flag person reamed them out royally for not obeying the sign. Shirl took full responsibility and all ended well. Shirl's day was even more interesting with two flat tires before she got in. [Photo510]
The choir is back in action. We are working on a New Zealand rhythmic piece and recruiting new members to play the rhythmic instruments by promising them they don't have to sing. Had a blast at rehearsal today.
Mileage: 73.0 / 9,352.2 (Today / Cumulative) [KM: 117.5 / 15,050.9]
Elevation gain: 4,000 ft